Jaisalmer Forts, Palaces & Havelis

Along the cobbled stone pathways of Jaisalmer, arise the havelis, the mansions of the Jain merchants who were as powerful in the court of the time, as they were adept in business. Their homes are poetry of sandstone, carved and pierced incredibly into different patterns, and though they are opulent and effusive, the result is in perfect harmony, and never offending the eye.

It is at an unhurried pace that the havelis (houses of rich merchants) should be seen and admired. These havelis are the pride of Jaisalmer architecture, a part of the national heritage. Salem Singh haveli, at the eastern end of the city, is an Arabian Nights structure, which, like a wild flower, blossoms at the top.

Near the city centre is the Patwon ki Haveli, built by Guman Chand Patwa and his five sons, dealers in brocade, gold and silver embroidery with business stretching between Afghanistan and China. The five suites built between 1800 and 1860 are virtually the showpiece of Jaisalmer's legendary architectural wealth. The carving on stone far surpasses in beauty the work on brocade and gold. The balconies are so delicately chiselled you would stand mesmerized by the splendour of it all, particularly when viewed early in the morning or in late afternoon. Oblique sunrays create enchanting and dramatic shadows, highlighting the carving and infusing a new life of its own. It is the grandest mansion in Jaisalmer, a veritable museum piece in the open.

The third haveli belongs to Nathmal, a later day prime minister who gifted it to the Rawal and was allowed to retain it. Built by two brothers in 1885, this haveli has two identical looking portions, which are in fact two different parts united by a common façade. Look for the projected balconies, which seem to emerge from books of poetry. So ethereal and charming, the carving never looked better. A perfect example of jeweller's art applied to stone carving. The Muslim silavats (artisans) did a wonderful job here and left a marvellous legacy of craftsmanship excellent in detail and flawless in conception. If only for viewing these havelis a trip to Jaisalmer is more than amply rewarded.

Jaisalmer fort is the second oldest in Rajasthan after Chittor and commands the desertscape from its 250 feet high perch on the hill. Three strong walls protect the citadel. The first buttress wall was constructed by the local Jain panchayat in the 15th century. The Rawals built subsequent additions and fortifications. The steep cobblestone pathway leading to the royal palace passes through four gates-Akhai Pole (Ganesh Pole), Suraj Pole, Bhuta Pole and Hawa Pole. Sharp turns on the road topped by high defence gateways made it invincible. At the highest point of the place can be seen an umbrella-Meghadamber symbolic of Krishna.

The fort has five palaces called Sarvottam Vilas, Akhai Vilas, Gaj Mahal, Rang Mahal and Moti Mahal-all interconnected behind the seven-storied façade. Small stairs take you from one court to another with superb jail screens shading interiors from the fierce heat and desert wind. The Rang Mahal built by Mool Raj II has some exquisite murals painted on arches and spandrels. Music and dances soirees were held here for royal ladies. From the balconies you get a terrific view of the mammoth ramparts below guarding the small city. Balconies at the Gaj Mahal are also breathtaking beautiful, if only the English Romantic poet John Keats had seen them. The fort contains one third of the city's population within the small houses on the narrow lanes. Many houses provide budget accommodation to visitors and house curio shops.

Within the fort are the three most exquisitely sculptured Jain temples dedicated to Rishabhdevji, Sambhavanathji and the Ashthapadi temple. Their ornamentation done in the style of the Dilwara temples at Mt. Abu is simply marvellous. The emerald icon of Mahavira is an unparalleled gem.